Tuesday 12 March 2013

White Chocolate Cake - Jenn


I volunteer at a charity shop and we found out that there is a rash of birthdays this week (including mine) so we decided to have a party!  I said I'd bring the cake, this is my go-to cake when I have to make one big enough to feed a horde.  Making the batter so easy that I do it by hand which means no washing up the stand mixer equipment, there's no creaming or folding so it's stress free and it's also really quick to mix up.  Since it's a white cake people aren't expecting the level of richness that all that creamy white chocolate provides.  While white chocolate doesn't have much flavour on its own it does impart something to the cake so everyone always asks what is responsible for the flavour, they know there's something special in it but they can't quite pinpoint it on their own, which means as the baker you get to brag about your creation.

It's based on a recipe from one of my favourite dessert TV chefs James Martin.  He's actually a full repertoire chef who has earned Michelin stars and all sorts of other accolades but I'm not very fond of his cooking on TV, I'm just a huge fan of his desserts.  He is a man who loves his desserts, you can tell most chefs on TV don't actually like desserts, but James does, a lot.  You can tell he loves them when you start looking at his cake recipes, this cake recommends serving 10 people at a whopping 770 kcals and 50g fat per slice!  There's no "light and refreshing end to your meal" with James Martin.  I've never managed to slice this cake into less than 18 servings and I've reduced the amount of butter and sugar and it's still a beast of a cake that deceptively cuts into narrow slices that are still huge when you lift them onto plates.  When I start cutting down on things like fat and sugar in a recipe and serving smaller portions than recommended you can rest assured that the original was decadent beyond all manageable capacities.


White Chocolate Cake

Pre-heat the oven to 160^C (140^C for a fan oven)

In a double boiler over simmering water put

170 grams unsalted butter
140 grams white chocolate broken into pieces
250 ml milk (you can use low fat or skim milk - look at the first two ingredients, it's not losing richness)
1 tsp vanilla
leave it until everything melts - no stirring, you'll mess up the chocolate

While you're waiting for the melting, grease and flour two 8 inch (20cm) round layer cake tins and wrap with cake strips (I'll explain later).

In your mixing bowl, measure out

250 grams self raising flour
1/4 tsp baking soda (bicarbonate of soda) for extra oomph against all the fat
250 grams sugar
pinch of salt
whisk them up so they're evenly mixed

Once the liquid ingredients are melted take them off the heat and let them cool a little bit, then give it a whisk so that it's all smooth.  Then mix in

2 eggs lightly beaten

Pour the liquid ingredients into the dry and whisk until smooth.

Then pour half the batter into each pan and pop in the oven.

Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, until a skewer poked in the middle comes out clean.  I switch  the pans about 2/3 of the way through the cooking time to bake them more evenly.  Leave to cool before icing.

I frost the cake with cream cheese icing because it's lighter than butter-cream icing and the slight tang of the cream cheese cuts against the richness of the cake, I decorate with fruit for the same reason.



Cake Strips
I used to have problems with this cake rising too much as it bakes and getting some crazy mountain action going on in the middle of the cake (think pyramid on a round base, really yes).  At first I thought I could get away with not adding that extra bit of baking soda but it came out unpleasantly heavy in texture, so the batter needs that extra oomph.  But I  wasn't going to cut 40% of the cake away to get a flat top on the layers, if you spend this much on chocolate for the cake you're serving the whole thing, so I did a bit of research into getting cakes to rise evenly and found this old trick that was probably used before oven temperatures could be regulated more accurately.  If you wrap the pan in a wet strip of old terry towel and secure with a safety pin it'll keep the outside of the pan a little bit cooler at the start of the baking time so the sides don't set too early in the bake.  The first time I tried it I sat in front of the oven watching the cakes the whole time completely terrified that they'd catch fire, they didn't, and they worked a treat, the cakes came out much more level.  You can buy cake strips made from high-tech insulating fibres that you don't have to dampen (they're all fancy with velcro to fit them round your pans) but if you have an old towel that you're going to throw away and some safety pins and a pair of scissors you can experiment for free!

Chocolate Fans
Did you notice that the recipe calls for the funny amount of 140 grams of chocolate?  Since I had to buy it in bars I bought 200 grams, which meant I had 60 grams leftover.  I'm not the biggest fan of white chocolate for eating so I thought I'd use it for decorating the cake, I drew up a little schematic of a stylized fan and placed it under a strip of baking paper then used it as a template to pipe out some white chocolate fans - simple to do but retro-chic impressive to look at!  If you're wondering where the long strip of paper came from, when I have to cut off an edge of baking paper to fit in a pan I save it and then either use it for lining the upright edges of baking pans at another time or for little projects like this.

Icing Technique
If you've been on pinterest you'll most likely have seen this technique from Lisa at Sockerrus, check out her blog for instructions, it's in Swedish but it translates easily with google, although her pictures explain it all very clearly.  Her decorating skills are far superior to mine and I love looking at her cakes.

Wednesday 6 February 2013

Cream Puffs - Grandma Ross

I don't remember much about Grandma Ross' cream puffs, mainly what I remember is her serving desserts that were sandwiched together with whipped cream.  Mostly meringues with whipped cream but Mom says she also made cream puffs and I found her recipe for them.  I've made choux pastry before and, despite common opinion, it's such a doddle that I didn't know why Mom never picked up the recipe, especially if she was trying to impress company because choux pastry always looks impressive.  Cream puffs are especially impressive because they're nice and big.

A recent conversation with Mom revealed that she was just stymied by the recipe instructions her mother left and for some reason they were always slimy inside even though she thought they were fully cooked.  Well, I can understand her difficulties, especially in the pre-internet world, these are the instructions from Grandma's recipe, "When water & butter are boiling add flour & salt.  Remove from heat.  Add eggs & beat one in at a time." - that was it, nothing else, so no wonder, huh?  If it wasn't for the internet I wouldn't know what to do with the recipe either, so thank-you technology.
 


Cream Puffs

Pre-heat the oven to 400^F (205^C)
Heat in a pot until boiling:
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup butter

While waiting for the water to boil, sift together:
1/2 cup flour
1/8 tsp salt
The moment the water and butter are boiling, turn the heat off, move your pot to a cool burner.  Dump all the flour into the water in one go and start stirring furiously.  I use an electric hand mixer but don't if your pot has a non-stick coating, mine are stainless so I'm good.

Once the dough comes away from the side start adding one at a time
2 eggs
It'll look like scary scrambled eggs for a while but keep mixing until the dough is smooth, shiny, and drops off the beaters (or spoon) easily.


Grease your baking sheet then splash some cold water on them and give them a shake so that you only have small drops of water clinging to the sheet.  This is a trick I found on the internet, because it's the steam that causes the choux pastry to puff up, if you have slightly damp baking sheets it creates extra steam for extra puff.  I'm not sure if dampening the tray makes much difference, I've always had my choux pastry puff up big and I only found the water trick recently, you still have to grease the sheet though, even if it's non-stick.

Spoon big tablespoon sized dollops of the dough onto the sheets leaving enough space for the cream puffs to expand to double their size without touching each other.


Bake  for 40 mins.

When you take them out of the oven, scoop them up off the baking tray immediately and punch a small hole in the bottom then put them on a wire rack to cool.  The internal structure of the choux pastry will remind you of strands of cobwebs like you see as special effects in old haunted house movies.  If you don't make a hole the steam has no where to escape, it'll stay inside, condense, and turn the cobweb strands slimy.  You could possibly try rescue your cream puffs by scraping the insides out with a spoon after you cut them open but you won't have any body left to it and the steam might also have gotten into the shell of the cream puff and there's no rescue for that.  Punch a hole in it, I used the handle of a spoon.

Once they're cooled, they'll keep for a few days if you don't fill them, but where's the fun in that?  Cream puffs can be cut open and filled with whipped cream or creme patisserie.  If you make profiteroles, the cream puff's miniature-cousin, they should be filled by piping the filling in through the hole you made to vent the steam.  To make the dessert extra indulgent you can also top them with sauce or chocolate shavings.
 


Gram LuVerne and Allana's Lemon Curd Caper

*Image note below
Intro by The Scone Apprentice:
My sister Allana went to university on Vancouver Island, where Gram LuVerne and Grandpa Bill Pierce lived in their retirement years. Allana was near enough to visit them on weekends and it was during all these visits that Gram and Allana forged a bond that is more than just Grandmother and Granddaughter, they became good friends. I don't think it was just geographical proximity that created this friendship; those two are sometimes thick as thieves. So when I heard about their most recent kitchen escapade I thought I'd hand the reins of the blog over to Allana to archive one of these events.


The Lemon Curd Caper:

I’m not known to be a very good baker or cook. I eat whatever I make - good or bad. Despite being complacent with my own cooking, I do recognize good cooking and baking when I taste it and my Gram LuVerne is an excellent baker and cook. During all my visits to see her and Grandpa Pierce, it was 100% goodness at every meal.

After Grandpa passed on, Gram had to change her cooking to suit one person so whenever I went to visit, Gram wanted try something else. About 7 years ago, I arrived at Gram's to find that she had bought seaweed wraps and Japanese sushi rice because she wanted to try sushi. To this day, we still laugh about our attempt to make sushi at home. Using the internet as our guide, we looked up how to roll sushi, make tempura, and deal with seaweed wraps. I’ve eaten tonnes of sushi in restaurants, while Gram had never tried it before. Despite my experience eating sushi, I was of no use when it came to making it. Gram had to assume the responsibilities of rolling the sushi and she did a good job of it too! I did what I do best – I ate it. And it was good.

But this is a baking blog, not a cooking blog. So let’s get back to baking.

I don’t really recall too many baking memories with Gram LuVerne. I remember eating lots of her baking and hearing the tales of her legendary apple pie (Dad). The Scone Apprentice talked about the money birthday cakes, which was a specialty that only she made. Yummy ginger snaps, bran muffins, and oatmeal cookies. I recall homemade canned peaches and cherries with ice cream. Grandpa Pierce showed us how to pack cherry pits inside the top of our lip like a chipmunk so we didn’t have to eat a cherry, spit out the seed, repeat. By packing the seeds in the top lip, you can spit them all out into your spoon at the same time. It’s more efficient. And fun.

Back to the baking.

A short time ago, Gram received an email forward that extolled the virtues of the lemon - from its nutritional benefits to antibacterial properties. According to the forward, the whole lemon has many nutrients, but most people only use the juice, pulp and zest while throwing away the pith, which apparently has many nutrients and we are missing out.

So, armed with a challenge, Gram took out her lemon curd recipe and reconfigured it to suit the entire lemon - juice, pulp, zest and pith. I offered to take a few pictures to document the event and also take some notes for TSA. I hadn't considered that I might be called upon to write for The Scone Apprentice. I am honoured and frightened at the same time because I know my storytelling is not up to her standard; nor are my run-on sentences. (tee-hee)**Scone Apprentice has no issues with her run-on sentences, she considers them a "writing style" and believes her audience finds them endearing.**


Before I launch into the baking lesson, I feel it’s important to impart Gram’s philosophy on becoming a master baker. According to Gram, "if you want to become a master baker, you need to have your hands in the dough" (December 23, 2012).In other words, you need to practice. That is the only way you will become good at it and truly learn the secrets that we playfully accuse Mom, Gram, Granny Ross, and Margaret from keeping from us. So, there it is. The words of wisdom from the master herself.

Today's Recipe:
1/4 c butter
1 c sugar
4 - 5 eggs beaten. Add slowly. (4 eggs if you want a thin curd, 5 for a thicker lemon curd)
Add lemon - 3/4 c (approximately 1/2 a whole grated/finely chopped frozen lemon)

Cook - in a double boiler stirring frequently or microwave for a few minutes, stirring between minutes in the microwave until it reaches the desired thickness.  - The Scone Apprentice wants to interject here, I use an electric hand held mixer because it's easier and I'm lazy.  I'm very impressed with Gram's hand whisking!


Now, The Scone Apprentice has already written extensively on lemon curd in her post about Lemon Tarts by Gram. This post is just some of Gram's finer tips of making lemon curd since I had the opportunity to observe the master baker in action.

Issues with eggs:
From Gram, I learned that if you don't thoroughly mix the eggs whites into the curd properly, you could end up with cooked egg whites (spots of white) throughout the curds because egg whites cook faster than other ingredients in the recipe. To avoid ending up with white bits, it's important to mix the ingredients like a cake. First, cream the butter and sugar together. Blend the eggs thoroughly and slowly add them to the butter and sugar. Stirring a lot in between additions. Then, add your lemon puree slowly, stirring it constantly. If your bowl wiggles all over the countertop while simultaneously pouring and hand stirring, place a damp wash cloth under the bowl and it will not skitter about the countertop.

When you first crack open an egg, there are often two little white ghosts beside the egg yolk - one on either side. They are called the chalaza and are the part of the egg that keeps the yolk suspended in the centre of the egg. If you do not remove the chalaza before cooking, they will appear as a little white spot in your recipe. Gram takes a few minutes to remove the chalaza before beating the eggs. I've never done that before and never considered doing that before today. But, I've never made a recipe where that would be such a noticeable bit.  
- The Scone Apprentice horning in again, if I think it'll matter to the results sometimes I pick the chalaza out in advance other times I sieve the whisked egg mixture to catch them later, depends on what is easier.


Perfectionism - Strive For It:


Gram is exceptionally organized before beginning baking. When I arrived that morning, she told me that she assembled the utensils and some ingredients the night before and had just set out the last of the ingredients. The jars were already washed and sterilized, just needing to be filled with lemon curd in about 20 min. It's also important to note that Gram keeps her recipe card out and refers to it while baking despite having made lemon curd for decades. I'm sure she knows the recipe by heart, but it shows that you never take for granted that you know everything. 
Gram has two lemon curd recipes.
One from Reader's Digest c.1995 and one from her sister Lillian from 1960.
She uses the Reader's Digest one more often as she says it's less rich.

Gram might be 92 years old, but her eyes and mind are still sharp as she demonstrates her dedication to perfection and pride in her work in her baking. For example, the lemon puree had a couple seed bits in it that the blender missed and Gram spotted them immediately and stopped production to make sure they were removed. I would like to think I would be that dedicated, but I tend to think I'd tell myself to enjoy the extra fiber. Gram's a great example to all of us that you're never too old to take pride in your work and do a good job. So I pledge, from now on, to fish out those bits, should they fall into my recipes, in order to make a good product. 

Microwaves: 

The main recipe calls for using a double boiler, but Gram has moved into the modern world and has adapted her recipe for use with a microwave. When cooking with the microwave, you have to periodically check the lemon curd as it will boil up quite quickly. It's difficult to watch the goings-on with the curd in the microwave due to the fashionable screens on the windows. This is one of Gram’s pet peeves - no one makes a clear window for microwaves or stoves any longer. When the curd starts to boil, take the dish out and give it a stir. You only need to do this about 3 times and then it will be cooked and thick enough. 


Official Scientific Results:

5 eggs definitely makes a very thick and stiff lemon curd.

The lemon curd needs to be refrigerated or frozen after you make it. It keeps well, particularly in the freezer so that you can use it when needed.


Gram, Dad and I enjoyed some lemon curd on crackers for our taste test soon after it was made. Verdict: using the entire lemon is not very tasty. The pith adds bitterness to the curd so it’s probably best to just use the lemon juice and zest when making this recipe.... but that didn't stop me from eating my little jar of lemon curd immediately when I returned to Vancouver. (As I said in my intro, I eat everything I make). Open-mouth smile



* I couldn't get a good image of Gram's jar of Lemon Curd from the photo that was emailed to me to use as the header, and it was such a sweet photo that I really wanted to include it.  After many hours of arguing with my basic photo editing software with my primary graphics skills I gave up and made a jar of lemon curd myself to recreate the photo in a more usable raw image.  If you're wondering why the colour is funny (and you should be wondering) it's because I didn't have any lemons so I used limes, so it's really lime curd but it's still yellow---ish.

Tuesday 5 February 2013

Nutella Thimble Cookies

It's World Nutella Day and since my niece Kayla is a nutella fiend*, but all the way over in Canada, I thought I'd long-distance-tease her with some nutella thimble cookies.


I used the same recipe as my birds nest cookies but omitted the step of dunking the dough in egg white and rolling it in coconut.  Then I filled with nutella instead of jam.


*Kayla and I both think that the ultimate spa day would involve relaxing in a giant hot-tub-sized vat of nutella.

Wednesday 26 December 2012

White Sauce - Mom vs Margaret

When I was young I remember Christmas dinner at our house with my grandparents from my Mom's side joining us, there may have been a few years this didn't happen but on the whole this is what I remember.  My Dad's parents were "snow-birds" the entire time I was young and went down to Arizona for the winter, I vaguely remember one Christmas with them in Duncan (it might have been an Easter tho) and one year we went to Arizona.  After my Mom's parents passed, we started having the big Christmas dinner at Mom's cousin Margaret's house, although Mom also did a smaller dinner for us between Christmas and New Year.  This is where the great pudding confusion began.  Mom and Margaret both made different puddings and different white sauces but claimed to have inherited their pudding recipes from their mothers, who would have inherited from their mother - who was the same woman, my great-grandmother.  So why were the puddings different?

After I made my pudding this year my sister, Allana, emailed me asking if I was going to make Margaret's as well to do a side by side comparison.  I didn't have Margaret's pudding recipe so I said no.  A week ago Allana emailed me Margaret's pudding and white sauce recipes* - suddenly things took a very interesting turn.  It was too late to make another pudding, it wouldn't have time to mature and it wouldn't be a very fair comparison, but I could do a head to head competition between the white sauces.

The main difference between the white sauces is that Mom's is made with butter while Margaret's is made with whipped cream.

Mom's White Sauce

Cream
1/2 cup butter

Gradually add
1 cup sifted icing sugar
beat until well blended

Beat in
1 tsp vanilla
1 egg (or two egg yolks)
a few grains of salt

Set over a pot of hot simmering water and cook and beat with an electric beater (or hand whisk and very strong arm) until it has thickened and is smooth and light - about 7 minutes.

Serve hot or cold


Margaret's White Sauce

Beat until thick, then set aside
1 cup whipping cream

In a second bowl beat until thick and pale yellow
1 egg that has been rinsed with boiling water before cracking open

Add 
1/3 cup granulated sugar (more if you like it really sweet)
beat again

Add and give a quick stir
1 tsp vanilla

Fold in all the whipped cream

Refrigerate until ready to use


Time for the taste test!




Mom's white sauce made me think it was almost pourable icing and it was thick in texture and very sweet.  Against the rich heavy flavour of the pudding it really held its own.  It also held its texture when slathered all over the hot pudding right to the very end of the eating, a major feat of which to be proud.

When I said it was very sweet though, I think I'd cut back on the sugar a bit.  I don't say that sort of thing casually, usually I don't believe there's ever too much sugar in anything.








Margaret's sauce was lighter in texture and less sweet, the freshness of the whipped cream was a relief after eating too much dinner and then facing down two bowls of pudding.  Against the pudding I thought the flavour wasn't strong enough and it melted into the hot pudding too quickly.

This flavour discrepancy doesn't align with my memories, I remember the sauce working very well with the pudding.  I think I need to add a small caveat here; Margaret's pudding recipe looks like it would produce a less dense pudding with a lighter flavour so this might not be a very fair competition after all.





Other factors to consider:  
>Margaret's sauce was easier to make, but I had two bowls to wash up when I was done.  Mom's was more fiddly and could have the potential to create more dishes to wash than it did but I was sneaky and cooked it over my pot of boiling potatoes instead of getting out a new pot - love a multi-task.
>If I were to sit down and eat just the sauce by the bowlful (which I've often thought would be a sensible thing to do) I'd choose Margaret's.
>How fast can you eat your pudding and do you mind if it turns soupy if you're slow?
>Which do you like more?  Butter or the ingredient that makes butter?

This was fast becoming a draw and my tummy was starting to hurt.
???Who do you love most???

In the interest of science (purely scientific research I assure you, not to force a conclusion so I could stop eating and go lie down) I did a little experiment.  I mixed a little bit of plain cream into Mom's sauce and it was stellar!  It cut back the sweetness that little bit and freshened up the flavour but still had the the heft to stand equal to the pudding's flavour and held up against the heat of the pudding.

The Winner
ME with my sauce that I've just invented!




* Major kudos to Allana for getting Margaret's pudding and white sauce recipes out of her.  I remember hearing Margaret say one year that she posted jars of pudding to one of her own (adult-aged) daughters who was in South America rather than giving her the recipe to make it herself.

Sunday 23 December 2012

Christmas Cherry Cake - Mom

Here's another inefficient Christmas treat that bit the dust fairly early in my childhood.  I understand why this one was crossed off the list, it's fiddly like you wouldn't believe.  Normally I pull ingredients out of the cupboard and measure them as I bake, that's why I note the ingredients in between the instructions, I don't have to go jumping back and forth between ingredients and instructions just start at the top and work down.  I don't think that casual attitude would have worked with this recipe, so I have listed the ingredients first then written out my recipe as I would normally have done.  I have never felt so compelled to have everything assembled and some bits even pre-measured before beginning a baking session in my life.  Shortly after starting I thought it was worth commemorating the scene with a picture.  I also want to apologise for the lack of progress pictures, I like seeing what things should look like along the way when I'm making a new recipe so I like to include them but I was feeling the stress of this recipe.

This cake is most likely single-handedly responsible for my curious love of those sickly-sweet glacé cherries.  It might just be the only Christmas cake I have ever eaten with eager zeal, most of the time I have the mantra "be polite, just chew quickly and swallow, stay polite, don't pull that face, smile nicely" running through my head.  I have to do a lot of that around Christmas food in England.

I don't mean to be down on my adopted country, truthfully Christmas in England is magical in so many ways, people will stand outside in the cold for tree lighting ceremonies and first night of the high-street lights display and smile with awe in the spirit of the season rather than complain about their frozen feet.  They have silly  crackers to make your dinner festive and panto to make you feel like a kid again so you're sure to get a few good laughs somewhere, carollers make the rounds far more often than you can imagine and they even keep alive sneaky pagan rituals that have been sanitized into something fun rather than dangerous.  And unlike the foreign perception of British cuisine there's actually lots of good foods, like chocolate yule logs and potatoes roasted in goose fat and mulled cider and great big wedges of Stilton.  I don't want to be down on Canada either but I don't think I could go back to a culture that doesn't have such a unified idea of Christmas tradition, even if I moved back I'd want English Christmas.  But I can't in good conscience glorify it too much, English Christmas is full of culinary pitfalls for the outsider because for some reason people have this obsessive attachment to historical foods.  Like the Medieval mincemeat in my recurring nightmare of a food - mince pies* - which everyone claims to love but then pulls a face when eating them - don't think I don't notice and I know what that face means.  Or Victorian recipes for pudding that always include candied peel and other ingredients that (once baked and fed brandy for a month) have a semi-soft texture that make you think it's gone mildewy.  And don't forget the food of the devil - sprouts** - if they're so wonderful why do most people only eat them once a year?

Tellingly, the English are always trying to come up with new ways to cook these foods, which makes me think everyone secretly hates them, but no one will make a version without the objectionable and offending ingredients because that would deviate too far from tradition.  With the fourteen billion wonderful Christmas traditions in this country you'd think people would be willing to let go of the few they secretly hate.  So don't make a Tudor era Christmas cake full of weird spice combinations, soggy almonds, and the bits of oranges you normally throw away, make a Cherry Cake instead and have a happier Christmas.


Christmas Cherry Cake

Ingredients:
1 3/4 cups sifted all purpose flour
2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp nutmeg
1/2 cup butter
1 cup sugar
3 eggs
1 tsp vanilla
1/2 cup milk

Recipe as per usual:
Pre-heat the oven to 350^F (176^C)

Separate
3 eggs
Whisk the egg whites until stiff, reserve the egg yolks for later

Sift the flour before measuring
1 3/4 cups sifted all purpose flour

Sift the flour again but this time with the baking powder, salt and nutmeg.
2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp nutmeg
Put the flour mixture aside but reserve 1/2 cup of the flour separately to be mixed in with the cherries.

Cream butter and sugar well.
1/2 cup butter
1 cup sugar

Mix in and beat well
3 egg yolks
1 tsp vanilla

Add and mix in alternately in two turns
Flour mixture
1/2 cup milk
Start and end with flour and beat smooth after each addition (1/3 the flour mixture-beat, then 1/4 cup milk-beat, then second 1/3 flour-beat, then 1/4 cup milk-beat, then the last 1/3 flour-beat)

Fold in the beaten egg whites (I have trouble folding stiff egg whites but my whisk was in the dishwasher waiting to be cleaned and I foolishly put my mixer whisk in the sink and it was touching other things.  I just know one of these stubborn little marshmallowy lumps of egg white is going to turn up as scrambled egg in the finished cake.  This is not a finished folding picture, keep going.)

Sprinkle over the batter half the reserved 1/2 cup of flour (that's 1/4 cup of flour)
1 cup glacé cherries (1/2 lb) cut in halves (I did not cut mine in half, I wanted whole circles of cherry in the slices of my finished cake not half moons.)
Sprinkle the remaining flour over the cherries - rattle those cherries round in their flour dusting to make sure the are well coated before folding through.

Fold the cherries into the batter until all is well blended.

Bake in a well greased and floured 5" x 9" loaf pan for about 1 - 1 1/2 hours or until done, but be sure to check after an hour.

Results:
Good
It tastes golden+ and buttery just like my childhood memories of it, really, really yummy.  The texture is light and soft and moist all at the same time, and I think with some practice it wouldn't be as stressful to make it in future.  I also have to think the buttery flavour is very impressive given the proportion of butter to other ingredients.  Lastly I didn't find any lumps of scrambled egg white - so far.  I would consider this cake worth making even without the cherries - which brings me to...
Not-So-Good
I had major cherry sink-age and I don't know why.  I gave them a really good dusting of flour, I was even sneaky and put a drop-zone of plain batter on the bottom of the tin before adding in the rest of the batter with the cherries so they were all floating on the top on their way into the oven, but it didn't help they're all on the bottom.Shame  Maybe I should have cut the cherries in half to make them less heavy?  Advice from the clever bakers please!  Also, sadly, I had serious sticking problems when de-panning that ended with a horizon split across the whole cake, so I've gone back and added "and floured" to the greased tin - even as I was greasing the tin I was thinking I should flour it but I didn't because I thought it's a greased non-stick pan, I'm being overly cautious already.
Yeah, I even went looking for a slice where the Cherries hadn't sunk.
If I had found a floating cherry slice I would have pretended they didn't sink.


+I know golden isn't a flavour but I don't know another  way to describe the lovely harmoniousness of the nutmeg-vanilla combo bathed in sweetness except as golden.

* Mince Pies are the most EVIL thing to do to someone at Christmas and I am so glad they died off of Mom's Christmas baking list in favour of butter tarts - thank-you Mommy, thank-you from me and every taste-bud in my mouth.

The Scone Apprentice's recurring nightmare that comes true every year during the Christmas season in England:

host: "who wants some dessert?"

TSA: "yes, please! I always save room for dessert!"

host: "do you want cream on your mince pie?"

TSA: "I didn't think dessert was going to be mince pies..." ... oh no! oh why did I say yes so quickly! full panic internal debate on whether to go for self-preservation and back-peddle with 'on second thought maybe I'm too full' or if I have to ask for two in an illogical attempt to be polite as a cover for the excessive disappointment and repulsion written all over my face even though the polite façade would only last up to the first bite

host: "they're a new kind!" ... there's hope, maybe it won't be so bad, maybe the new change will make it better

TSA: "do they still have candied peel and beef suet?"

host: "yes! and the pastry crust had a layer of grapefruit marmalade spread under the mincemeat to give them a fresh zing!" ...no that did not make it better, that made it the opposite of better - why don't people here eat butter tarts at Christmas?

** the only way to make sprouts non-offensive is to refuse to bring them into your house, and fyi given that sprouts are food of the devil it makes them most inappropriate to serve during the feast celebrating the birth of Jesus

Thursday 20 December 2012

Krumkake or Krumkaga - Mom


I don't think there was a December that went by that my Dad didn't request we have these, but I can only remember them happening once.  As for my sisters, Allana remembers them a few times while Heather has vague shady thoughts of them but no real memory.  To be honest I don't think I'd remember them either if I hadn't helped make them one year.  I have to admit it is still a highlight of my childhood baking memories, taking turns with my Mom operating the cast-iron krumkage iron and wrapping each hot cookie waffle around the barrel of the turkey baster.  I used to chime in with my Dad in his campaign for krumkage partly because anything served with whipped cream rated highly in my books and partly because making them with Mom was such a vivid and enjoyable memory that I wanted to repeat it.  And the beautiful swirling pattern pressed into the cookie from the iron mesmerised me with its old world charm.

It is testimony to how much my Mom loves my Dad that she went out and bought a krumkake iron and tried to make them.  My Mom doesn't do anything if it can't be described as efficient and let's face it, baking cookies one at a time, one side at a time, on the stove top in a specialised waffle iron and then hand molding them into shape is the opposite of efficient.  Given that they were Christmas treats in our home and Mom was responsible for making Christmas happen - everything from decorations, to presents, to the big dinner, to cards for friends and family, to trips to the mall Santa, and to baking - well eventually something was going to have to give and krumkake had it's fate marked early.  It didn't stop Dad from asking.

Last summer I asked Mom if I could inherit the krumkake iron and I think the only thing I could do as a grown up to bring her more joy would be to give her a grandchild.  She said, if it turns out I don't want the iron I can give it away or to charity or the bin man.  Poor Mommy, I think her hatred of that iron and the baking process it represented grew exponentially every time she was asked to make them.  I, on the other hand, gleefully re-packed my suitcase three times to ensure that it would be fit for travel and not put my case over the airline weight limit, it's that heavy.

Once I got it back to London I had my krumkake iron fired up within a few days.  Now here's where my experience with the iron differed from Mom's.  I mixed up the batter and it was quite thick, I had to google to learn that it can be thinned down with water if need be, and after doing so still I had to dollop it onto the iron with a small ice cream scoop.  I remember Mom's batter being really thin and there's evidence of that in all the splatters on the recipe page of her minnesota viking cook book that I inherited along with the iron.  Mom also claims that the high butter content of the batter melted out during cooking, dripping down onto the burner, and sending great clouds of smoke through the house.  I remember the chaos of smoke-detectors and open windows in December while we were making them so she wasn't inventing problems to get out of making them.  I didn't skimp on the butter but I didn't have any issues with the butter melting, out at times I even had to brush the plates of the iron with a bit extra butter.  The only time I had any smoke problems is when crumbs of the batter would flick off the iron as I was peeling the cookie out and land on the burner - those crumbs went up in plumes of smoke and were charred in seconds.  It still took me quite a few attempts to get the technique right but I never had any of the neighbours concerned that I was burning down my flat, as evidenced by my stove once I finished.

Since my krumkake iron is old-fashioned cast iron, between uses I've been giving it a good wipe to get all the butter off then a quick smear with vegetable shortening and reheating to season the plates with a fat that won't turn rancid during its downtime - advice from my Gram LuVerne who is a font of tips and tricks, she's more clever than pinterest.


Krumkake

I cut the recipe by 1/3 because I had no desire to make 60 krumkake and it's the reduced quantity I've detailed here, times by three if you want a mountain of krumkake.

If you have an old krumkake iron, start to heat it on the stove on medium heat, it needs to heat for at least 40 minutes to get thoroughly hot.  If you have a newfangled electric one, follow the instructions that came with the machine.

Using an electric mixer beat until fluffy
1 egg
slowly add in and continue beating for another 5 minutes
1/3 cup of sugar

Add
1/3 cup melted butter - cooled
1/4 cup evaporated milk
1/2 tsp vanilla
give it another good beating for 2 minutes

Fold in
1/2 cup flour

The batter should be fairly thick, now you get to leave it for about 20 - 25 minutes, it will mature and continue to thicken - which according to my google results is important but if it ends up too thick you can thin it down with a few spoonfuls of water.

Once the batter has rested and the iron is hot, put a small dollop of batter on the iron and close it quickly, give the handle a light squeeze to press the batter out thinly between the plate.  Cook for 30 seconds on the first side then 40 seconds on the second side, flip back to the level side and open.

Peel the cookie off the iron and roll onto a wooden cone (I don't have a wooden one so I fashioned mine out of the core from a kitchen paper roll wrapped in baking parchment) and leave to cool.  Repeat ad nauseum until you've used up all the batter, over all my tries I've gotten between 14 and 18 cookies, theoretically based on the math of the recipe you should be able to get 20, but I'm sure iron sizes vary.  If your iron starts looking a bit dry between cookies give it a quick brush with some butter.

Some were better than others, and some of the results were inedible (which made me popular with the ducks in the park) but I got there in the end.

I ate the first with whipped cream out of respect for tradition, then the rest with fruit, cut up bits of mango and clementine segments in an attempt to make them less unhealthy.  When I was talking with Allana about her memories of them she said she remembered them with cut up bananas so I thought I'd give that a try and what goes better with banana than Nutella!